It is that time of year.
The ramps have arrived.
Ramps are wild leeks, and belong to the same genus as onions, garlic and chives. Their flavor is a wild and woodsy combination of the three. You can eat the entire plant, the bulb, stalk, and leaves, and can use them in recipes where you’d use garlic, onions, leeks, or scallions. They are native to North America, and thrive in damp woodlands. They are one of the first splashes of green in the woods, and an unmistakable sign that spring has finally decided to come to the party.
(here is one growing in our yard–that I had planted from a few extra I had bought at the farmer’s market two seasons ago).
To make them even more of a produce rock star, they are only around for about a month, after which the flavor grows too aggressive. During that time, these slender green devils send the culinary world into a bit of a frenzy. In Appalachia there are many community-wide festivals devoted solely to ramps. In New York City, it’s tough to walk into a restaurant in April and not find at least one ramp special on the menu. At Rick Bishop’s Mountain Sweet Berry Farm stand in Union Square’s greenmarket, there is a sign propped up by his ramps with business cards from spectacular NYC chefs (who get their ramps from Rick), and handwritten notes of how they each prepare this seasonal delicacy:
The Modern: ramp ravioli
Gramercy Tavern: grilled, pickled, salsa verde with ramp greens, sauteed with scallions, salad of leeks with grilled ramps
Butter: chopped eggs on toast with grilled ramps and ricotta
Corton: ramp wrapped quail breast and lardo ballantine
SD26: ramp risotto
Mas Farmhouse: sauteed with bacon cream
Co.: grilled with lamb shoulder
Dell’anima: Tajarin “alla carbonara”–ramps, speck, egg, and pecorino
When I visited the stand yesterday, I told Rick I was in a bit of a “ramp rut” and needed some new ideas. And did I get some! (Tip: always chat with the farmer at the stand to find out their favorite way of preparing their vegetables. Amazing resource!) Great new ramp recipes to follow…and in the meantime, get some while you can.